Italy

April 5 2021

Savonarola and San Marco, Florence

Brendan Church, Florence, Italy, Renaissance history, Savonarola 6

Many years ago, I read a novel by George Eliot about a young girl called Romola living in Renaissance Florence. The story was about her life amid the religious upheavals of the 1490s. Much of the novel referred to the powerful Savonarola, the monk who coerced the Florentine people to abandon their material wealth for religious piety. It was a turbulent time. I have always been intrigued by this period of Florentine history. Visiting Florence, I was able to bring this all to life. I saw where he lived and where he met his fate.

Copy of Franco Rosselli’s painting, The Execution of Savonarola and Two Companions at Piazza della Signoria

Curious about Savonarola

A plaque in Piazza della Signoria commemorates Fra Girolamo Savonarola who was burnt on a bonfire in 1498.

It is the exact spot where he had encouraged Florentine citizens to burn all their books and items of wealth on an enormous bonfire just a few years earlier. The burning event became known as The Bonfire of the Vanities.

Savonarola Fervour

Savonarola’s influence over Florence during the 1490s was feverish. His sermons were a pushback against the Medici’s and corrupt clergy members. Savonarola viewed them as obscenely wealthy. He saw them as enemies of the church, although he was careful not to name them.

He claimed that their power and immense wealth had been disastrous for Florence. Savonarola regularly preached to crowds on such themes. At the same time, he was preaching the French had invaded Florence. He used the invasion to suggest God was angry with the Florentines. It worked for a while.

Savaronola’s Downfall

Eventually, Papal authorities concluded that Savonarola’s sermons were an overreach of his duties. The pope excommunicated him in 1497. The charges were for treason and heresy. Subsequently, to avoid arrest, he stopped preaching in public.

When he did return to public life, a colleague of his in the monastery boasted that he could walk through fire. Predictably, he challenged Savonarola, who, of course, accepted. In the end, rain washed out the event, and officials cancelled it, and the crowd turned on him.

Savonarola’s Execution

Along with two friars from San Marco, he was arrested. Savonarola confessed under torture to having invented his prophecies and visions.

The three were named heretics and schismatics and were condemned to death. On the 23rd May 1498 in Piazza della Signoria, they were hanged with fires ignited beneath them to consume their bodies.

Commemorative plaque to Savonarola inside Basilica

San Marco

The monastery is adjacent to the Basilica of San Marco in the piazza of the same name. It was founded in the 13th by the Silvestrine monks.

The order, though, was not popular with the city. The monks favoured wealth over religious piety and charity. After decades of feeling neglected, the Florentines complained to the pope. Consequently, the Silvestrines were ordered to vacate the monastery. Cosimo Medici, keen to court favour with the papacy, intervened and invited the Dominican monks from Fiesole to move into San Marco.

The Dominicans began an extensive remodelling of the basilica and monastery. It was at this point that Savonarola arrived in Florence. He moved into the monastery, as Prior, from his hometown of Ferrara to San Marco in 1489.

Visiting San Marco

The monastery is open to the public, and it is possible to see the monks’ cells, and of course, Savonarola’s.

It is by ticket entry to visit the monastery, and it is separate from the basilica.

December 30 2020

San Lorenzo and Medici Chapel in Florence

Brendan Church, Florence, Italy Church, Florence, Renaissance 21

Right in the middle of the market district in Florence is the Basilica of San Lorenzo. The basilica is one of the biggest and oldest churches in Florence. The basilica is the first consecrated church in the city, dating back to 393. The church we see today was also the parish church of the all-conquering Medici family. The Medici chapel is in the apse of the basilica. Above all, as well as the markets, are well worth a visit.

Basilica of San Lorenzo

The basilica was the Medici family’s parish church from the fifteenth century right through to the 1720s. They offered to finance a new church that would replace the 11th-century Romanesque church. In other words, it would showcase their wealth and influence in the city-state.

The Medici’s commissioned the imminent Renaissance architect of the time, Filippo Brunelleschi, to design it.

Cannon’s Cloister, Basilica of San Lorenzo

The church was not completed during Brunelleschi’s lifetime. Of course, there are alterations. The unfinished front facade being the most obvious.

What we see today is a large monastic complex with contributions from other Renaissance artists. These include Brunelleschi’s alterations of the Old Sacristy. Secondly, Donatello’s decoration and sculptures in the sacristy. Michelangelo designed the Laurentian Library and the Newer Sacristy. Some of the techniques used were innovative for the time. Overall they formed the developing style of Renaissance architecture.

Medici Chapel

The two Medici Chapels (Cappelle Medicee) are purpose-built extensions to the Basilica of San Lorenzo.

Michelangelo designed the Sagrestia Nuova, or New Sacristy. The chapel design aimed to compliment Brunelleschi’s Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy) in the basilica.

The Michelangelo designed monuments in the chapel are dedications to members of the Medici family.

The second chapel, the octagonal-shaped Cappella dei Principi (Chapel of the Princes) was completed in the 17th century. The dome of this chapel is 59 metres high and is what can be seen externally from a distance.

Separation of Light from Darkness is the theme

Entrance to the chapel is by Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini.

San Lorenzo District

The area around the basilica is known as the central market area for the city. There is an exciting mix of stalls selling clothes, leather goods and souvenirs. Adjacent to the street market is the indoor Central Market or Mercato Centrale.

Statue of Giovanni dell Bande Nere, father of Cosimo Medici

Inside the market, the ground floor has a great mix of fresh produce stalls. The upstairs area is a reconfigured space designed to be an eating area complete with independent market stalls selling freshly made food (all made on the premises).

Outside cafes by Medici Chapel near indoor market

There is an excellent mix of Florentine street food and traditional Tuscan food. There is even an enoteca (wine shop) there. I had a great time there choosing a wine then some food and finding somewhere to sit. It is a busy place.

December 27 2019

Italy on film

Brendan Italy Arezzo, Rome, Siena 38

With the Lavazza Italian Film Festival over for another year in Australia, it has got me thinking about some of the locations used in the films. It is always great to watch a movie and sometimes recognise the place. It is even better if I have been there. If I haven’t been there, after the film I want to find out where it is and then add to my wish list. Here are three towns and cities that have been captured on film.

Rome

Perhaps an obvious choice, but ever since the 1950s Rome has been immortalised in film. From Three Coins in a Fountain to 8 ½ and to modern films such as La Grande Bellezza (The Great Beauty), To Rome With Love and Eat Pray Love. It’s not always films set in the tourist areas that are the best ones.

Statue of Tibertino, Capitoline Hill, Rome

One of the big movies at the festival this year, The Champion, is set around the big soccer stadiums, the training grounds, and expensive homes of footballers.

The Tiber River, one of the true stars of The Great Beauty

Another is the Italian language film (from a previous year) ‘Perfetti Sconosciuti’ (Perfect Strangers), a film set in one apartment throughout a dinner party. Both films are worth a look.

Arezzo

Arezzo in Tuscany was the backdrop for the sensational film La Vita è bella (Life Is Beautiful). Arezzo is a beautiful town with significant paintings, churches and piazzas to warrant a visit anyway.

It is possible to find the locations used in the film. Noticeboards detailing the places and their specific use in the movie are evident throughout the town.

Walking around Arezzo, I was reminded of some poignant scenes from the film. Fans of the film will recognise the rather grand triangular sloping piazza where the hero of the film, Guido Orefice, is shown cycling down it at speed.

Siena

Siena is one the jewels of Tuscany. Much visited for its beautiful circular piazza, Il Campo Marco and the Duomo, Siena has also been used in the movies to significant effect.

Most recently, Siena has featured in My House in Umbria, Under The Tuscan Sun, Tea With Mussolini and Quantum of Solace.

August 17 2019

Four Unique UNESCO Sites in Italy

Brendan Italy, Travel Mantua, Matera, Paestum, Ravenna, Sabbioneta, UNESCO 14

Italy currently has 55 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. This is more than any other country in the world. They all reflect significant episodes in Italy’s history, such as the Roman Empire and the Renaissance. Both have played their part in shaping the modern world. It is quite a legacy. Here are four UNESCO sites from across the Italian peninsula. They include cave dwellings, temples, Byzantine churches and Renaissance architecture.

Paestum

Paestum is part of the Cilento Peninsula. The peninsula is listed as a cultural landscape of outstanding value. Furthermore, there is evidence of continuous human occupation dating from 250,000 years ago.

The Temple of Ceres, built in the classical style (500BC) and dedicated to Athena.

In Paestum, most noteworthy are the three Greek temples. They date as far back as 600 BC. The temples are in an excellent state of preservation.

The Basilica, construction began in the 6th century BC making it the oldest temple in Paestum.

Visiting Information

The Archaeological Park and Museum are open every day from 8:30 to 19:30 every day. They are closed on Christmas Day and New Years Day. Check opening times for the museum.

Fresco inside the archaeological museum in Paestum.

Cost is 11 euro (under 18’s are free).

The park is about a 10-minute walk from the railway station. By rail, Paestum is 1hr 20 min from Naples.

Matera

Matera shows evidence of continuous occupation through several millennia. It is thought the caves were first occupied during the Palaeolithic period. There are more than a thousand dwellings in the Sassi area. They include shops, workshops, churches, monasteries and hermitages. They were all built into the natural caves of the Murgia valley.

The natural cave dwellings built into the Murgia Valley.

In the 1950s the entire population of the Sassi was relocated. The move was made to improve on sanitation and to renovate the ancient districts.

Modern Matera is built above the older Sassi (cave) district.

What we see today are the efforts of people returning from the 1980s to the Sassi. Currently, Matera is one of the 2019 European Capitals of Culture.

Chiesa di San Pietro Caveoso, the only church in the Sassi district not to be built into the stone.

Visiting Information

Matera is on the Bari-Matera line, operated by a private railway company, Ferrovie Appulo Lucane.

Ravenna

The early Christian buildings and the mosaics are amongst the best surviving examples of this form of art in Europe. They blend together western and eastern imagery and design.

Visiting Information

The main tourist attractions that include the mosaics and the churches can be visited on a combined ticket.

The Basilica of San Apollinare in Classe, 5km from Ravenna.

Cost – 9,50 Euro (Children aged 6-18 is 8,50 euro)

Mantua and Sabbioneta

Mantua – Castello di San Giorgio, a stronghold for the ruling Gonzaga family.

The cities of Mantua and Sabbioneta represent two ideas in Renaissance town planning. In Mantua, it is the renewal and extension of an existing town.

Sabbioneta has been given the title ‘ideal city’. Sabbioneta is said to be the most perfect example and was granted UNESCO status in 2008 in recognition of this.

In Mantua – the Renaissance palaces of Palazzo Te and Palazzo Ducale (for Mantegna’s frescoed room, Camera degli Sposi). Also, the Basilica of Saint Andrea and the Duomo.

Mantua – the Duomo di San Pietro, built in 1549.

In Sabbioneta – the Jewish ghetto (including a Hebrew printing-press), the Teatro all’antica, Galleria degli Antichi and the Palazza del Giardino. Also, the beautiful central Piazza Ducale and Palazzo Ducale (now the town hall).

View of Piazza Ducale from the bar in Sabbioneta.

Visiting Information

Mantua can easily be visited by rail from Milan. Sabbioneta is 30km from Mantua. There is a bus from Mantua.

July 17 2019

Glimpsed Out of a Train Window

Brendan Italy, Travel train travel 26

Ever found yourself glimpsing out of a train window and found yourself noticing something amazing? You may be on your way to somewhere else, but immediately you want to visit this place. First of all, you may think is it possible to change your plans? But, maybe perhaps due to time constraints, it may not be possible. Read on about four locations that having glimpsed out of a train or bus window, I knew I had to visit them one day.

Certosa di Pavia

Returning by a train years ago from the Cinque Terre to Milan I happened to glimpse out of the train window, and I noticed an incredible looking gothic building.

Due to the train moving so quickly, I was not able to get a proper look. Because of all its decoration, I did wonder that it might perhaps be a religious building. I did get another chance to visit Lombardy many years later, and finally, I visited the monastery of Certosa di Pavia.

The Carthusian monastery of Certosa di Pavia is 8km north of Pavia and is accessible via a branch railway line from Pavia. Trains run hourly. From the train station, it is a pleasant 10- minute walk via a path that follows the perimeter of the ancient monastery walls.

The perimeter path from railway station to Certosa di Pavia

Visiting the monastery

Standing outside the monastery really is an attack on the senses. I, first of all, could not help but notice that all surfaces of the facade are decorated with statues, reliefs and inlaid marble.

Secondly, after having visited the Duomo in Milano, I concluded that the exterior was similar and almost certainly another example of the Lombard style.

The interior, in contrast, is Gothic in design and therefore follows the more traditional Latin cross plan with two aisles, a transept and a nave.

For me, most noteworthy were the paintings by the Renaissance painter from Milan, Ambrogio Borgognone and the fifteenth stained glass windows by Zanetto Bugatto and Vincenzo Foppa.

The colours were amazing to see. After having visited the monastery, I would certainly recommend joining one of the tours that run hourly. And, above all, with Pavia being only 8km don’t forget to visit this ancient university town as well.

Trevi

The Umbrian town of Trevi is beautiful. When I first glimpsed Trevi out of a train window, I was based in Perugia and was catching trains to visit Spello, Assisi and Spoleto.

Trevi due to it being on top of a hill, it stands out. Every time I saw it it was a different colour, be it golden or pink.

Getting there

And so, returning from Spoleto one sunny afternoon, finally; I got off the train at Trevi to investigate. Trevi is 2km from the train station, and I assumed there would be a bus.

Unfortunately, though, I had already missed both buses up to the hilltop town for the day. Un-phased I began to walk.

Visiting the town

The walk there was beautiful because I was walking past vineyards and farmhouses. The road up to Trevi zigzagged steeply. The old Roman road, the Via Flaminia, runs through the town.

The steep path up to the centre of Trevi

It was a hot day. Therefore, to hide my breathlessness, I took lots of photos. I finally reached the top, and there was silence. Due to it being mid-afternoon I had arrived during siesta. There was no-one about. I reached the centre of the city where there was a bar open.

After a rewarding glass of beer, I turned my attention to exploring Trevi. The shops and churches had now reopened for the afternoon.

I left Trevi in the early evening. Walking back to the train station, the views of the town in the late afternoon were spectacular. Bathed in sunlight the town was now a pinkish colour.

Ostuni

On my first visit to Puglia many years ago, I had intended on visiting Ostuni. Unfortunately, I had run out of time. It looked amazing as I glimpsed it out of a train window practically every day.

Getting there

I returned to Puglia in 2016, determined to visit Ostuni. I stayed in the nearby city of Brindisi for the reason that it is about 30 minutes by train to Ostuni.

Rather than wait for a bus, I opted to walk the 2.5km up to the city.The walk did involve walking beside a road for some of the time. I avoided this by walking off the path adjacent to the main road. The track is beside ancient olive groves. What an introduction!

Walking by the olive trees on the way to Ostuni

The white city

Ostuni is known as the white city and glimpsed from a train window it is stunning. Interestingly, special limestone-based paint is used to give the city a white-washed painted style and act as a deterrent from diseases. Diseases include the plague.

First close up look at Ostuni”s whitewashed buildings

Therefore, as a result of Ostuni successfully avoiding outbreaks of disease, a law was passed. Every year all buildings must be re-painted.

Visiting Ostuni

After a gradual climb, I reached the top of this beautiful hilltop town. Access to the city is via gates, but there are also alleyways and narrow streets to enter. I opted for the latter and started wandering, taking photos along the way.

All lanes seemed to lead back to the central Piazza della Libertà where the beautiful church – Chiesa di San Francesco is. Leaving the main piazza, I explored the nearby streets.

Walking around the ‘white city’ of Ostuni

I also discovered where the artisan shops, restaurants and churches are. I remember I was forever walking up steep tiny streets to investigate and take photos.

After much walking around and discovering, reluctantly it was time to leave Ostuni. I contemplated leaving only after I visited an enoteca by the Duomo and enjoyed a glass of the locally produced white wine Impigno.

Castiglione del Lago

I had always been curious about Lago Trasimeno and the castle fortress town beside it. Often, I had caught trains between Cortona and Arezzo and had passed through the lake region.

Finally, one-day last year, when staying in Florence for a month, I decided to visit Castiglione del Lago. Due to the lakeside town being about 90 minutes by rail from Florence I was able to visit as a day-trip.

Getting there

From the train station, it is about a 15-minute walk to the town. You know you will have arrived when you reach the stone stairs up to the town gate. Climbing the stairs gives you your first proper glimpse of the lake, and it is rather impressive.

Exploring the town

In Castiglione del Lago there is one main street that begins at the town gate and ends at the castle. Hence when you enter the town, there is an array of restaurants, cafes, artisan stores and enoteche (wine stores).

Before visiting the castle, I opted to explore, leaving the main road every so often. Along the way, I would come across tiny churches and restaurants.

The castle

Because of its elevation, the views from the castle walls and towers are spectacular. You get a real sense of just how large the lake is.

It is possible to walk around the entire castle complex. To reach the furthest of the two towers, it does involve walking through a narrow (defence) tunnel built into the castle walls. A real sense of history is ever-present.

Walking by the lake

For lunch I sampled the local pasta in a wild boar ragu and one of the Trasimeno DOC wines Berlingero. To walk off my lunch, I headed down to the outside castle walls path. I then headed down again to the lake shore.

I walked along the lake for a while, just to get a sense of how large the lake is.

Inside an enoteca in Castiglione del Lago

Before returning to Florence, I took time for a rewarding gelati, followed by and then a glass of the locally produced Sangiovese from an enoteca.

July 3 2019

Walking Without a Map

Brendan Church, Florence, Italy Florence, walking 7

Do you ever have a day planned out and then find yourself suddenly walking without a map? Or you just put the map away? It can go two ways, find yourself well and truly lost, or you stumble across something you hadn’t expected. Of course, having a map in your hand, or an app on your phone certainly does come in handy, but so is putting them aside once in a while. Here is a time where I recently put the map away.

View of Florence and medieval walls from Via di Belvedere

When talking about walking without a map, I am referring to sightseeing when in a town or city. Unless the trail I am walking along is visible, I would never consider this for long distance trails. There is usually more than one path. They continually criss-cross each other and can easily confuse. Especially so when on the return journey. I have done this before. I won’t admit I am lost. I’ll just compensate myself by taking photos instead. Eventually, I find a way back.

Change of Plans

Last year when visiting the Basilica San Miniato al Monte I opted to return to central Florence back down the stone staircases known as the Poggi Ramps.

Descending the Poggi Ramps, from San Miniato al Monte

When I reached the door (tower) of Porta di San Miniato, my way forward was through to Piazzetta in San Miniato. I had planned to continue on walking through the Oltrarno district and cross back over the Arno River at the Ponte Vecchio.

Chiesa di San Leonardo in Arcetri

I did, however, notice a sign for a church, San Leonardo in Arcetri (also known as Parrocchia di San Leonardo in Arcetri). It was up another hill, but I thought, why not? Always ready to see another church, I turned left up to the road Via di Belvedere. It didn’t matter that I hadn’t heard of this church before, or that it was not noted in my guidebook. It was an adventure.

Via di Belvedere borders a section of the medieval city walls of Florence. The walls stand at about 10 metres high. They were built to defend the once independent city-state.

Reaching the church

Eventually, the road divided, and I took a left. I was now walking along Via di San Leonardo. After about 350 metres, I reached the church. As luck would have it, it was closed.

I am used to seeing churches up close from the outside when they are closed. It’s always a rush to see as many as I can when they are typically open from 8:30am to 12:30pm and again from 3:30pm – 6:30pm. This church though was behind locked gates.

Chiesa di San Leonardo in Arcetri – closed!

About the church

Known as a ‘pieve’ (rural church) the medieval church was restored in the 20th century. I learnt afterwards that it boasts some 15th-century paintings and two canvasses by Francesco Conti (18th century).

Close up of the image above the church door

There are also pre-Renaissance paintings by artists working for Master workshops (students of a leading artist). Might be worth a return visit.

Returning to Florence

The walk back was a delight. I was more than prepared to keep going, but I was running low on water.

Medieval house along Via di San Leonardo

The road continued for a while alongside some medieval houses. The Belvedere walls made way for villas part hidden by modern day security fences.

Sneaking a look at a villa along Via di San Leonardo

Familiar road

As it turns out, my little path eventually came to an end at a junction. The way looked familiar. The road was the same road I had come upon when I caught the bus up to Piazzale Michelangelo. Oh well, at least I knew the way back down!

Entrance into Florence

Continuing down Viale Galileo and then Viale Michelangelo, I enjoyed some much-needed shade. If you are looking to stay in a Tuscan villa style hotel, then this is the place. I passed several and can only imagine the views (and price).

The medieval gate into the Oltrarno district, Porta Romano

I reached Porta Romana and made my way back through the lovely Oltrarno district. More about the Oltrarno in future blogs…

June 5 2019

7 reasons to visit Friuli Venezia Giulia

Brendan Italy, Travel archaeology, Slow food, wine 2

For those seeking the authentic Italian experience, look no further than the self-autonomous region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. It is a region not often visited by tourists, although it’s no secret to Italians. The region is just over 1 and a half hours from Venice. Why not give the region a try? Here is a snapshot…

Using cities like Udine or Trieste as a base, it is possible to visit places such as Aquileia, Palmanova, Cormòns, Prepotto, and Cividale dei Friuli. English isn’t spoken widely here. Today there are three official languages spoken – Italian, Friulano (dialect) and Slovenian. The mix of languages and cultures create an exciting fusion in the local cuisine, with many restaurants following the ‘slow food’ movement.

1. Udine

Udine is a compact city with a lot to see. The main square in the Centro Storico is Piazza Giacomo Matteotti with great bars and cafes.

The jewel in Udine’s crown is the Piazza della Libertà. To see are the 15th-century Loggia del Lionello and the 16th-century Porticato di San Giovanni complete with a clock tower. There is also a Palladio designed gateway, the Arco Bollani. Follow the steps up a cobbled hill to the 16th-century castle. It is home to the Musei Civici e Galleria di Storia e Arte Antica for extensive archaeology and art collections.

Piazza Della Libertà with the castello (museum) in the background

Next to the castle is the 12th century Chiesa di Santa Maria al Castello. Continue upwards to Piazza della Castello and be rewarded with fantastic views of Udine and the Friulian Alps. Recommended is the restaurant Casa della Contadinanza for lunch and refreshments. The restaurant sources local ingredients. They also do wine tastings.

Return the same way or take a path down to the ‘newer’ old town. The path can be found to the left of the church. For Piazza della Libertà head towards the gate Porta Manin, stopping first for a delicious gelato from Il Morettino Gelateria Artigianale.

2. Aquileia

One of my reasons for coming to Friuli Venezia Giulia was to see the UNESCO archaeological site of Aquileia. If travelling by public transport, it is possible to catch a bus from Udine to Aquileia (allow about 1 hour each way). The ruins of Aquileia are spread out over a large area, so head first to the tourist information centre. They provide a service (for a fee) where you can hire a portable audio device (in several languages) for each point of significance. Maps are provided as well. You can also hire bikes.

Highlights of the site are the AD313 basilica with its beautiful mosaic floor in the nave and the Cripta degli Scavi. The mosaic floors in both the nave and crypt are an excellent showcase of how fine craftsmanship developed over the centuries.

The beautiful frescoes down in the 12th century Cripta degli Affreschi

Close to the basilica is the village where there are shops and restaurants, as well as the fantastic Museo Archeologico Nazionale. For my visit I allowed about 4.5 hours. This gave me enough time to stop for lunch as well at Ristorante Hotel Patriarchi.

3. Palmanova

Palmanova is a Renaissance gem, being a planned fortress city that followed the ideals of a utopian city. It was built by the Venetian Republic in 1593 to withstand sieges. To explore the star-shaped fort, you can walk around the entire structure via a walking track. The track runs between the outer walls and middle walls.

Three gates lead into the city, and by following them, these will take you to the hexagonal shaped Piazza Grande. This central piazza is where the beautiful white stoned Duomo is, as well as cafes and restaurants.

Also, to see are the Museo Civico and the theatre, Teatro Gustavo Modena. Getting to Palmanova is easy, either by bus or train from Udine. From the centre, the railway station in Palmanova is about a 1 km walk. Head for the Porta Udine, cross over the bridge to continue walking along Borga Udine and turn left onto the treelined avenue, Viale Stazione. Trains run hourly to Udine.

4. Cormòns

Cormòns was a town I visited en route to the village of Prepotto. I wish I had also spent more time in Cormòns. I caught the train here to pick up a bus and immediately I noticed how ‘un-Italian’ the town is. The influence is more Slovenian, and the language I could hear people speaking was actually Friulian. It’s a reminder that this part of Italy was up until the1950s a part of Slovenia.

With some time to spare, I walked to the Centro Storico (15 minutes) and found a bustling town with beautiful churches and cafes. I had a delicious coffee at Caffè Massimiliano on 10 Piazza Libertà that reminded me more of a coffee from Austria or Germany than Italy. Close by is the beautiful Baroque church, Chiesa di Rosa Mistica-Santa Caterina.

The Baroque church, Chiesa di Rosa Mistica-Santa Caterina

Cormòns, I discovered, is famous for being a centre of wine and ‘slow food’ cuisine. There are tasting places and enoteche in and around the town. Recommended to me, is the Enoteca di Cormòns in Piazza XXIV Maggio. I need to return to Cormòns.

5. Prepotto

The tiny village of Prepotto is right on the border with Slovenia. More importantly, it is where the red wine Schioppettino is produced. This wine, also known as Ribolla Nera, is an indigenous wine only revived thirty years ago. I was visiting Prepotto for this, first having tried the wine in Rome at the enoteca Cul de Sac. In the village, there is a sensational trattoria enoteca, Trattoria Da Mario Enoteca dello Schioppettino where you can do a well-recommended wine tasting.

Before visiting the trattoria, I went for a walk in and around the vineyards. Prepotto is so close to the Slovenian border that I was always stepping back and forth between the two countries. Road signs are in both languages. Returning to the trattoria, I in my best practiced Italian sampled three wines. I stayed for a fantastic lunch and had a couple of glasses of the Schioppettino wine I liked the best.

Wine tasting at Trattoria Da Mario Enoteca dello Schioppettino

The trattoria is very popular for cyclists and day trippers from Slovenia. During my lunch, I must have counted five different languages spoken, none of them English.

6. Cividale dei Friuli

The charming town of Cividale dei Friuli is well worth a visit. It’s a great place to wander around and admire the well-preserved buildings, many of which pre-date the Renaissance. Beginning with the main road, Corso Mazzini continue until you reach the Piazza del Duomo for the Renaissance-inspired cathedral. Not far from the Duomo is the Museo Archeologico Nazionale in Piazza Diacono. Well worth a visit is the 8th-century sacred building of Tempietto Longobardo on Via del Monastero Maggiore.

View of Cividale dei Friuli and the Ponte del Diavolo

Returning to Piazza del Duomo head down Corso Paolino d’Aquileia for one of the prettiest views in Cividale dei Friuli. Cross the Ponte del Diavolo (Devils Bridge) and look back towards Cividale. The bridge was built in the 15th century to join the high rocky banks of the River Natisone. The view gets better as you walk beside the top banks.

Back across the bridge, there are many more medieval streets and squares to explore, including Piazza San Francesco, Piazza Diaz and Stretta del Mulinuss. Cividale dei Friuli can be reached by rail and bus from Udine.

7. Trieste

On the Adriatic coast and the Slovenian border, Trieste is a bustling port city. The harbour is enormous and lined with grand buildings. Heading slightly inland will take you to one of the beautiful piazzas in Italy, Piazza Unità d’Italia.

The architecture reflects a time when Trieste was the most important port of the Austro-Hungarian empire. As well as grand buildings there is the enormous fountain – Fontana dei Quattro Continenti. Trieste has some great churches, including the Duomo in Piazza Cathedrale, the Serbian orthodox Saint Spyridon. There is also the Greek Orthodox church of St Nicholas and the Catholic church Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore. Street signs in Trieste are in both Italian and Slovenian.

Trieste, I discovered, takes coffee very seriously. Coffee first came to Italy via Trieste. There are some sensational cafes here.

Detail of building in Piazza Unità d’Italia

The streets in and around Piazza Unità d’Italia and Piazza Cathedrale, notably Via San Nicolo have beautifully maintained cafes from the 19th century. It is difficult to narrow down to just one, but I would recommend Caffè San Marco in Via Cesare Battisti. This caffè was once a meeting place for intellectuals, including James Joyce. A city to return to, for sure.

May 29 2019

The basilica on a hill above Florence

Brendan Church, Florence, Italy, Travel Church, Florence, Tuscany 7

From its position nestled in the foothills of Mount Fiorentinus behind the Piazzale Michelangelo, the medieval basilica of San Miniato al Monte keeps a protective eye on this Renaissance city. Why not take a walk up the stairs from Piazzale Michelangelo and marvel at this medieval masterpiece?

The front facade of San Miniato al Monte

The basilica was built during the early eleventh century on top of an old Oratory shrine, erected for San Minas. He was the first Florentine Christian martyr (250 AD). The shrine dates back to the Carolingian era (8th century).

The front facade complete with guild eagle atop

I first visited San Miniato al Monte way back in 1999. It was a hot day in May and after an exhaustive climb up the church steps from Piazzale Michelangelo I entered the basilica and felt the immediate cooling effect of the marble. I remember it being incredibly peaceful and without the crowds of other churches in Florence. I have always wanted to revisit this basilica. The façade of San Miniato al Monte is I think the best example of Florentine Romanesque architecture.

Approaching the basilica as I did all those years ago by the two flights of stairs there in front of me was this green and white marbled pre-Renaissance church. At the top of the front façade is the tympanum, a twelfth-century mosaic. The mosaic depicts Christ between the Madonna and San Miniato (Saint Minas). The eagle that sits atop the triangular shaped pediment is the heraldic animal of the cloth merchants, the Arte di Calimala. The cloth merchants financed the building of the church from 1288.

A twelfth-century mosaic known as a tympanum

Walking inside is an attack on the senses. The interior is superb and survives virtually in its original state (1018-63). The basilica’s design is divided up into three equal spaces with two parts aisle and a nave. The floor design of the central nave is made up of inlaid marble and details Symbols of the Zodiac. The designs copy patterns of Eastern carpet.

Moving beyond the nave is a raised choir. The choir is above the enormous hall crypt.

Central aisle looking towards the Altar. Note the inlaid marble patterns

Don’t forget to look up as the roof trusses are Gothic with flying buttresses used to divide the church into three equal spaces. The supporting columns are recycled columns from Roman temples in the city. The motifs are a unique mix of design from different eras, including Gothic, Byzantine (in the Choir section) and Renaissance style.

The Gothic roof trusses with supporting columns decorated motifs

At the centre of the church is a small marble Renaissance chapel built to house a crucifix in honour of Saint Giovanni Gualberto who performed a miracle. Beyond the chapel is the Altar.

The Altar complete with Altar Piece by Agnolo Gaddi

Here the altar-piece by Agnolo Gaddi depicts the stories of Saint Miniato, Saint Giovanni Gualberto, and Stories of the Passion.

Up the stairs beyond the chapel is the choir where the crypt and the remains of St Minas are. Two things of interest to note in the crypt. The first is the original 11th-century columns, complete with antique decoration. The second is the later designed Renaissance barrel vaulted marble ciborium, built by Michelozzo for Piero de’Medici in 1448.

The Sacristy complete with frescoes (Life of St Benedict) by Spinello Aretino (1387)

In the sacristy, there is a fantastic fresco cycle by Spinello Aretino (1387). The cycle reflects on the Life of St Benedict. The most famous fresco of this cycle being “St Benedict Resurrects, a Fellow Monk Buried Alive.” Downstairs in the vaults is frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi.

Adjacent to San Minato al Monte is the Monumental Cemetery or Porte Sante. The architect Matas designed the cemetery in 1839. On the right side of the church is the Monastery of Monte Oliveto.

Monks make liqueurs, honey, and herbal teas. There is a shop next to the church. On the left side of the church are the remains of the bastions and bell-tower, destroyed during the siege of 1530.

San Miniato al Monte is up behind Piazzale Michelangelo. The piazza is a fantastic viewpoint to get a panorama of Florence. There are a couple of bars, gelaterie and several souvenirs stand. To get to Piazza Michelangelo, I opted to take the ATAF orange No12 bus from outside Santa Maria Novella, the central train station in Florence. Buses are regular. Don’t forget to buy your ticket (euro 1,50 each way) and validate as you board the bus. Buy tickets from Tabacchi shops. Look for the “T.”

The famous view from Piazzale Michelangelo

I opted to walk back down. It is about a 20-25-minute walk back down to the Ponte Vecchio and the Oltrarno district. Look for the stone staircases known as the Poggi Ramps. Descending the stairs will take you to the door (tower) of San Miniato in Piazzetta di San Miniato. Continue through the tower and keep going straight ahead.

Descending the Poggi Ramps, thankfully easier going down!

I opted to take a left turn here, as according to my map, there was another church to visit. The church, San Leonardo in Arcetri, was not too far away and up another hill, but that’s another story…

May 13 2019

Crema, a terracotta gem

Brendan Italy, Travel Crema, Italy, Lombardy 4

Sometimes you visit a town or city and find yourself wondering why it isn’t more widely included in travel itineraries and guides. One such destination is Crema in Lombardy.

Walking past the Duomo on the way to the B&B

I visited Crema in August 2018 and stayed for two nights. I was looking for somewhere to stay between Milan and Florence and came across Crema by chance. About the same time, I happened to see the film Call Me By Your Name and loved the terracotta architecture of the town featured in the movie. I was pleased to discover that the town and countryside were in and around Crema.

Terracotta features prominently in Crema’s architecture

Built along the River Serio, Crema is a city and comune in the province of Cremona in Lombardy. Crema was once part of the Republic of Venice. Crema is not too far from Milan. Travelling by train from Milano Centrale does requires one change at Treviglio for the Crema train.

I arrived in Crema on the last Friday of August. Walking from the train station to my accommodation, B&B Delle Arti, took around 20 minutes. As I got closer to the B&B, I could not help but notice that the grey clouds were black and stormy. They had looked less menacing when I got off the plane at Milano Malpensa. Luckily, I made it to the B&B in time and checked in. Luckily, I made it to the B&B in time and checked in.

The B&B Delle Arti was a perfect find, being only a ten-minute walk from the centro storico (historic centre). The bed was extremely comfortable, and the shower was beautiful and hot. They provide a continental breakfast. The actual B&B is in a residential building. With the rain all but stopping, I could return to the Centro Storico and start taking some photos and go in search of an aperitivo (pre-dinner drink and snack).

In the Piazza Duomo are some great bars and restaurants. I went into Caffè Marini Coktails and Food and opted for an Aperol Spritz. Nicely settled in I started to think about food.

Enjoying an Aperol Spritz as an aperitivo

Once again rain was threatening so reluctantly, I went in search somewhere closer to my B&B. By chance, I spotted Ristorante Speranza Pizzeria down a cobbled side street. I had a great meal there and ordered a mixed salad for a starter (antipasti) followed by a bowl of linguine with salmon in a creamed sauce for my main. With my dinner, I enjoyed a couple of glasses of Sangiovese from Emilia-Romagna.

After a continental breakfast the next morning, I walked back into town to explore Crema. Approaching the centre from a different direction, I made my way towards the Venetian gates and walls. Dating back to the fifteenth century the walls did at one time encircle the once Venetian city. Only a few parts of the structure do remain after being demolished in the nineteenth century.

Two gates do prevail, Porta Serio (above) and Porta Ombriano. The gates were designed by the Cremona architect, Faustino Rodi in the early 1800s.

I made my way back towards Piazza Duomo. The Duomo was built in the Lombard Gothic style between 1284-1341 over a pre-existing Romanesque cathedral. The original cathedral being damaged by the siege of Barbarossa in 1160. Parts of the Romanesque cathedral are evident in the crypt.

While looking around the Duomo, I was fortunate enough to be accosted by a local unofficial guide (free) who would not take no for an answer. He was very knowledgeable and was keen to practice his English. Nothing wrong with that. The trouble was though when he got to a particularly bloody and gory part of the siege of Barbarossa, he would start speaking more quickly and with his voice raised. Without making eye contact beyond what I had to, I managed to make my excuses.

After my escape, I spent some time in the Piazza Duomo taking photos of the Duomo with its beautiful terracotta front façade from every conceivable angle.

The Palazzo Communale with Torre Guelfa and Palazzo Pretorio

Adjacent to the Duomo is two palazzi (palaces) dating back to the period when Crema was part of the Venetian Republic, the Palazzo Communale (with Torre Guelfa) and Palazzo Pretorio. Built from 1525, The palazzi, built from 1525, are a fusion of Lombard and Venetian architecture. The symbol of Venice, the Lion of San Marco, is attached to the Torre Guelfa. The Palazzo Pretorio housed the new council chamber, as well as being the podestà’s (high official) residence.

Being a Saturday, the town market was happening. Leaving Piazza del Duomo behind I went in search of the markets. They are located in Via Verdi, about a five-minute walk from the Duomo. After a quick coffee and a taste of some biscotti, I headed back towards Piazza del Duomo in the direction of the long pedestrianised shopping street, Via Alessandro Manzoni.

Not far from where this road ends, I found another church to visit, Chiesa di San Benedetto, built in the Baroque style in the seventeenth century. The church incorporated an ancient abbey (1097) annexed to a monastery of the same name. Elements of the abbey cloisters are visible in the winter chapel.

Walking back towards the centre via the streets adjacent to the pedestrianised street, I came across the Teatro San Domenico. The theatre is in a former Renaissance Dominican complex. Completely restored, the Renaissance church was a reconfiguration of an original 14th-century church dedicated to a different saint, San Pietro Martire. In the same Piazza is a nineteenth-century loggia built-in 1842 to house the linen and grains market. Today instead, there is a lounge bar.

Retracing my steps back towards the Duomo, I went in search of a restaurant I had spotted the night before – Quin Trattoria. Here I sampled the local pasta, Tortellini Cremaschi. The filling interestingly was fruit and is served with butter, sage, and cinnamon rather than the usual broth. It tasted great. The wine of choice was Lambrusco.

Returning to the streets near the Teatro San Domenico I went in search of the Museo di Civico on Via Dante Alberghi. The museum is in the former convent of Sant’ Agostino, built from 1439 in the Renaissance style.

The cloisters inside the Civic Museum of Crema

Look out for the well preserved two cloisters with octagonal brick pillars. Also, the frescoed refectory; in particular the painter Giovan Petro da Cemmo’ version of Da Vinci’s The Last Supper. The museum is well worth a visit.

Sketches for frescoes of Da Vinci’s Last Supper by Giovan Petro da Cemmo

Opposite the museum is the mysterious late Baroque style Palazzo Bondenti Terni de’ Gregory. Its mystery lies in that only one side of the palace was completed. The Palazzo was commissioned in the late seventeenth century by the Counts Bondenti. The four statues built in soft stone on the wall date from 1716 celebrate the Bondenti family.

To walk off my big lunch, I continued to wander around Crema for the rest of the afternoon admiring its beautiful terracotta architecture and Baroque churches.

A church whose name I cannot recall (sorry Crema!)

Before calling it a day I had time for one final Crema culinary treat, a gelato at Ice Cream near the Porta Ombriano.

Crema is well worth a visit and can easily be visited as a day trip from Milan. Further towns to explore in the area include Cremona, Lodi, and Piacenza.