Walking Without a Map

Do you ever have a day planned out and then find yourself suddenly walking without a map? Or you just put the map away? It can go two ways, find yourself well and truly lost, or you stumble across something you hadn’t expected. Of course, having a map in your hand, or an app on your phone certainly does come in handy, but so is putting them aside once in a while. Here is a time where I recently put the map away.

When talking about walking without a map, I am referring to sightseeing when in a town or city. Unless the trail I am walking along is visible, I would never consider this for long distance trails. There is usually more than one path. They continually criss-cross each other and can easily confuse. Especially so when on the return journey. I have done this before. I won’t admit I am lost. I’ll just compensate myself by taking photos instead. Eventually, I find a way back.

Change of Plans

Last year when visiting the Basilica San Miniato al Monte I opted to return to central Florence back down the stone staircases known as the Poggi Ramps.

When I reached the door (tower) of Porta di San Miniato, my way forward was through to Piazzetta in San Miniato. I had planned to continue on walking through the Oltrarno district and cross back over the Arno River at the Ponte Vecchio.

Chiesa di San Leonardo in Arcetri

I did, however, notice a sign for a church, San Leonardo in Arcetri (also known as Parrocchia di San Leonardo in Arcetri). It was up another hill, but I thought, why not? Always ready to see another church, I turned left up to the road Via di Belvedere. It didn’t matter that I hadn’t heard of this church before, or that it was not noted in my guidebook. It was an adventure.

Via di Belvedere borders a section of the medieval city walls of Florence. The walls stand at about 10 metres high. They were built to defend the once independent city-state.

Reaching the church

Eventually, the road divided, and I took a left. I was now walking along Via di San Leonardo. After about 350 metres, I reached the church. As luck would have it, it was closed.

I am used to seeing churches up close from the outside when they are closed. It’s always a rush to see as many as I can when they are typically open from 8:30am to 12:30pm and again from 3:30pm – 6:30pm. This church though was behind locked gates.

About the church

Known as a ‘pieve’ (rural church) the medieval church was restored in the 20th century. I learnt afterwards that it boasts some 15th-century paintings and two canvasses by Francesco Conti (18th century).

There are also pre-Renaissance paintings by artists working for Master workshops (students of a leading artist). Might be worth a return visit.

Returning to Florence

The walk back was a delight. I was more than prepared to keep going, but I was running low on water.

The road continued for a while alongside some medieval houses. The Belvedere walls made way for villas part hidden by modern day security fences.

Familiar road

As it turns out, my little path eventually came to an end at a junction. The way looked familiar. The road was the same road I had come upon when I caught the bus up to Piazzale Michelangelo. Oh well, at least I knew the way back down!

Entrance into Florence

Continuing down Viale Galileo and then Viale Michelangelo, I enjoyed some much-needed shade. If you are looking to stay in a Tuscan villa style hotel, then this is the place. I passed several and can only imagine the views (and price).

I reached Porta Romana and made my way back through the lovely Oltrarno district. More about the Oltrarno in future blogs…

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